Decoding watch collectors’ slang.

Watch collecting is not just a hobby; it's a subculture with its own language, a lexicon of terms and nicknames that enthusiasts use to express their passion and communicate within the community.

For those new to the world of horology, decoding watch collector slang can be as thrilling as the intricate movements of a timepiece.

Let's embark on a linguistic journey to unravel the mysteries behind the terminology that defines the watch collecting experience.

A non exhaustive glossary:

  • AD: Abbreviation of Authorised Dealer - self-explanatory.

    A-Serial: A vintage Rolex reference number indicating a production date from the late 1950s to 1960s.

  • Barn Find: A watch discovered in unexpected, often untouched conditions, like finding it in a barn.

    Bark Finish: A textured finish on a watch bracelet resembling tree bark.

    Basketball: A vintage Rolex GMT-Master with a faded bezel, resembling a basketball.

    Batman: Refers to a blue and black bezel on a GMT watch, specifically the Rolex GMT-Master II on an Oyster bracelet. The same watch on a Jubilee bracelet is referred to as a Batgirl. Similar use and origin as the more popular Pepsi further down.

    Beater: or “Daily Beater” - your most often worn daily watch.

    Bezel Action: The smoothness and precision of rotating the bezel on a watch.

    Big Crown: Vintage Rolex Submariner with an oversized crown.

    Bishop: Rolex Day-Date.

    Bubbleback: Vintage Rolex watches with a rounded case back.

    Bumblebee: Omega Speedmaster with a black and yellow color scheme.

    Bust Down: also called “Iced out” - a diamond-encrusted watch, starting from the dial ending with a bracelet.

    Blueberry: A vintage Rolex GMT-Master with a blue and red "Pepsi" bezel.

    Bracelet Monster: Someone who prefers watches on metal bracelets rather than leather or NATO straps.

    Bump: A noticeable increase in a watch's market value.

  • Cake: A vintage Rolex Daytona with a "Paul Newman" dial.

    Carré: A square-shaped watch case.

    Choco: Vintage Rolex GMT-Master with a brown and gold bezel.

    Coke: Rolex GMT-Master II with a black and red bezel.

    Co-Axial: Watches equipped with Omega's Co-Axial escapement.

    Compressor: Watches with a compressor-style case, such as Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris.

    Connoisseur's Choice: A term for a watch that is highly regarded among experienced collectors.

    Cyclops: The magnifying lens on the date window of a Rolex watch.

    Cyclopsless: Referring to a Rolex without a date magnifier.

  • Daily Diver: The reliable watch one wears every day.

    Desk Diver: A dive watch that rarely sees actual diving and is mainly worn for desk or everyday use.

    Destro: A watch for left-handed people and meant to be worn on the right wrist, with the crown on the left side.

    Dirty Dozen: A group of 12 watch manufacturers that supplied watches to the British military during World War II.

    Double Red: A vintage Rolex Sea-Dweller with two lines of red text on the dial.

    Dress Watch: A thin and elegant watch suitable for formal occasions.

  • EDC Watch: Everyday Carry watch, a versatile timepiece for daily wear.

    Exhibition Case Back: A transparent case back allowing a view of the movement.

  • Fanboy: a collector/enthusiast that is focus mostly on the one brand or complcation for instance Rolex fanboy, tourbillon fanboy etc.

    Fat Font: A vintage Rolex Submariner with a thicker font on the bezel.

    Fat Lady: Rolex GMT-Master II with a thicker case.

    Fauxtina: Term referring to artificial vintage effect applied to new watched making them looking like they are older than they truly are. Seen mostly on dials with fluorescent index markers.

    Flecto: Popular on Instagram, this word describes a beautiful reflection of light captured on a watch’s crystal in a photography.

    Flieger: German for "pilot," often used to refer to pilot watches.

    Flipper: a person who bought the watch only to resell it immediately and make a profit with this operation. Can also be used to describe someone who frequently buys and resells watches either at cost or at a loss to feed their habit.

    Fluted Bezel: A grooved or ridged bezel, often found on Rolex watches.

    Frankenwatch: A “Frankenstein watch”. In reference to second-hand and vintage watches, a watch that has been repaired or modified using parts not from the original watch — or even the original manufacturer — usually devaluing it in comparison to an all-original.

    Frogman: A diver's watch, often used by military frogmen.

  • GADA: Acronym for "Go Anywhere, Do Anything," describing a versatile and durable watch.

    Ghost(ed) Bezel: A bezel that has faded, giving it a ghost-like appearance.

    Ghost Date: A date window without a date magnifier.

    Gilt Dial: A watch dial with gold lettering or accents.

    Grail Watch: or “Holy Grail” - The ultimate dream watch for a collector.

    GTG: Stands for Get-Together - the meeting where all the watch family gathers to make photos and talk about watches.

  • Helium Escape Valve (HEV): A feature in diving watches to release helium during decompression.

    Hesalite: Acrylic crystal used in vintage watches, known for its vintage aesthetic.

    Hulk: Rolex Submariner with a green dial and bezel.

  • Indie: Also called “Microbrand” - refers to independent watchmakers or brands—smaller, artisanal creators known for unique designs and craftsmanship.

    Ingy: IWC Ingenieur.

    In the Wild: A watch found in its natural, unaltered state.

  • JDM: Japanese Domestic Market watches, often exclusive models.

    Jelly Bean: A colorful, playful watch design.

    Jumbo: Usually a term that sticked to Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with time only indication and relatively large case size.

    Jumping Hours: A complication where the hour numeral changes instantly.

  • Killy: Rolex Dato-Compax chronograph, named after skier Jean-Claude Killy.

    KISS Principle: "Keep It Simple, Stupid," emphasizing simplicity in watch design.

    Keeper: A watch that you’d never sell or trade, you’ll just keep it for eternity.

    Kermit: Rolex Submariner with a green bezel and black dial.

  • Lollipop: A second hand with a circular tip, resembling a lollipop.

    Long E: Rolex Submariner or Explorer II with an elongated "E" in Rolex.

    Lug-to-Lug: The measurement from one lug to the other on a watch case.

    Lume: Luminescent material on watch hands and markers.

  • Mickey: A vintage Rolex Submariner with a prominent coronet logo, resembling Mickey Mouse.

    Microbrand: Also be referred as ‘Indie brand’. A much smaller, independent watch company making their timepieces in a more ‘artisanal’ way with very limited timepieces produced annually. Examples such as Akrivia, Atelier de Chronometrie, Kari Voutilainen, Groenefeld.

    Military Grind: A modification to a watch to resemble military-issued models.

    Military Issued: A watch specifically issued to military personnel.

    MILSUB: Military Submariner, a Rolex Submariner issued to military personnel.

    Monster: Seiko Monster, a distinctive dive watch.

    Multichron: Vintage chronograph by Gallet.

  • NATO Strap: A one-piece fabric strap passed through spring bars, originally developed for military use.

    NOS: New Old Stock, a watch that has never been sold or worn.

    NWA: Acronym meaning "New Watch Alert". Usually your favourite hastag when you can finally present the new watch on social media, often via a wrist shot.

  • Open Heart: A dial with an opening to showcase part of the movement.

    Oyster: A term commonly used in reference to Rolex watches with water-resistant cases.

  • Panda: A watch with a white dial and black sub-dials.

    Paneristi: Collectors of Panerai watches.

    Patina: The aging or discoloration on a watch dial or hands.

    Past10: 10past10 / 8past10 - the most photogenic set of watch hands, the so called “watch smile”.

    Pepsi: Rolex GMT-Master II with a blue and red bezel.

    Pilot Watch: A watch designed for aviators, often featuring large, legible dials.

    Pump Pushers: Round pushers on a chronograph reminiscent of a pump.

  • Quarter Repeater: A complication that chimes the hours and quarters.

  • Radiation Symbol: A symbol on watch dials indicating the use of radioactive material for luminescence.

    Railroad Dial: A dial with highly legible, clear markers for accurate timekeeping.

    Rally Strap: A racing-inspired watch strap.

    Red Sub: Vintage Rolex Submariner with a red "Submariner" text.

    Rehaut: The area between the dial and the crystal on a watch.

    Reissue: A modern version of a vintage watch.

    Root Beer: Rolex GMT-Master with a brown and gold bezel.

  • Safe Queen: A watch kept in pristine condition and rarely worn.

    Salmon Dial: A dial with a warm, pinkish hue.

    Sarb: Seiko Alpinist models.

    Sapphire Sandwich: A watch with a sapphire crystal on both the front and back.

    Shoes: A slang term for a watch strap.

    Speedy: Omega Speedmaster.

    Service Dial: A replacement dial installed during a watch service.

    Sexpile: A must have event at any GTG. Where all the enthusiasts are putting their watches on the same table and it’s a time for taking a photos of this pile.

    SMP: Seamaster Professional, a series of dive watches by Omega.

    Smurf: Rolex Submariner with a blue ceramic bezel.

    SOTG: Acronym meaning "State Of The Collection," usually accompanied by a photo of one's entire watch collection.

    Spider Dial: A dial with a web-like pattern, often found on vintage watches.

    Sputnik: Omega Constellation with a star-shaped logo.

    Stealth Watch: A low-profile or under-the-radar timepiece.

    SubC: Rolex Submariner Ceramic, referring to models with ceramic bezels.

    Super Compressor: A type of dive watch case design known for its water-resistance.

  • Tachymerite: Omega Speedmaster with a tachymeter scale.

    TinTin: Omega Speedmaster with a red and white dial.

    Tonneau: A barrel-shaped watch case.

    Tourby: A slang nickname for tourbillon complication.

    Tritium: Radioactive material used in vintage watch lume.

    Tritium Burn: Fading or discoloration on a watch dial due to aging of tritium lume.

    Tool Watch: A robust and functional watch designed for specific tasks.

    Top Gun: IWC Pilot's Watch Top Gun collection.

    Tourneau: Slang for a large, oversized watch.

    Tropical Dial: A dial that has aged to a brownish color due to exposure.

    Turtle: A nickname for Seiko's Prospex cushion-cased dive watches.

    Tutti Frutti: Rolex Day-Date with a colorful, gem-set dial.

    Tuxedo: Rolex Datejust or GMT-Master with a black and white dial.

    Twin Six: Rolex Datejust with two lines of six diamonds.

  • Ultraman: Vintage Seiko Speedtimer with orange accents.

    Under the Radar: Refers to watches that are not well-known but offer exceptional value.

    Unpolished: A watch case that has not been polished, maintaining its original finish.

  • Vampire: Rolex GMT-Master II with a black and red bezel.

    Vic-tooth: The vintage Omega Speedmaster with a stepped dial resembling a row of teeth.

    Vintage: A watch that is at least 20 years old.

  • Wabi-Sabi: Embracing the beauty of imperfection in a watch.

    Waffle Crystal: A vintage Seiko dive watch crystal with a textured pattern.

    Waffle Dial: A dial with a textured, waffle-like pattern.

    Watch Roll: A portable storage solution for multiple watches.

    WIS: Watch Idiot Savant, a term for passionate watch enthusiasts.

    Wrist Candy: Wrist Candy refers to a particularly attractive or desirable watch that one proudly wears on their wrist.

  • X-33: Omega Speedmaster Professional X-33, designed for astronauts.

    Xeric X-Mark: A distinctive hour marker design used by the brand Xeric.

    X-Factor: A watch with a unique and distinctive design.

    X-Serial: A vintage Rolex reference number indicating a production date in the early 1970s.

  • Yacht-Master: A Rolex watch designed for yacht enthusiasts.

    Yobokies Mod: Watches modified by Yobokies, a well-known modder.

    Yogurt: Omega Speedmaster Professional with a white dial.

    Young Timer: Vintage watches with a youthful and dynamic vibe.

    Yours: A personalized or customized watch with sentimental value.

    Yuki Dial: Seiko watches with a dial made by Yuki, known for its vintage style.

  • Yard-O-Led: A vintage Rolex Day-Date with an intricate, "full" bracelet.

    Zen Watch: A timepiece that embodies a Zen-like simplicity and balance.

    ZIfferblatt: The German term for watch dial.

    ZRC: Zodiac Sea Wolf ZRC, a vintage dive watch.

    Zulu Time: Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), often used in aviation watches.

Beyond words.

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